1987 3.7liter 165 voltage regulator problems

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1987 3.7liter 165 voltage regulator problems

apache8182
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Home Forums Breezeworks 1987 3.7liter 165 voltage regulator problems

This topic contains 5 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  apache81821 3 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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  • #17047

    apache8182
    Participant

    Hello I’m new to the site and new to boating. This is my first boat but I’m fairly mechanically inclined. So here’s the issue my battery isn’t charging. I know about the convertion kit but wanted to keep the cost down while temporarily fixing the issue. I installed a ford R400 voltage regulator/ rectifier the 2 stater wires to the S and F terminals, red (sense) and orange (output) to the A terminal and finally a jumper wire from the I terminal to the I terminal on the starter solenoid. Long story short battery still not charging. I checked the stater 0 Oms on both wires, so that indicates it isn’t grounded and still good correct? The regulator is completely sealed / waterproof so I’m not concerned about spark….. where do I go from here ? Is my wiring incorrect ? Also why are there so many what seem to be redundant wires I.E. the red and orange wires that are connected at the same terminals…… are one of thes wires sucking away voltage? Any help appreciated, thanks.

    #17049

    jeffgbica
    Participant

    hey i recently bought a 3.7 and it had a make shift bracket on it. it was a curved slotted 1/4″ steel that was bolted ware the power steering would go and had a spacer on the bottom of a car alternator and it worked fine

    #17051

    stractor
    Participant

    As far as I know , there is no direct of the shelf replacement for the original water cooled voltage regulator. There was a discussion on the old forum about this and if I remember there was a replacement that wasn’t Mercruiser. All the Yellow and red wires are the leads from the the stator. They are not redundant there are three sets of coils in the stator that output AC that is routed to the regulator and rectified into DC. This generates a lot of heat and is why the regulator is water cooled. The original charging system is a magnet/stator system and being such is always charging and can’t be controlled like an alternator or generator. There are SCR’s (silicone control rectifiers)in the original that control the rectification and the voltage to the battery by internally disconnecting the regulator from the battery when the regulator senses that the is at full charge. This all happens very quickly. The original regulator pulses the battery in fractions of a second. There is no other regulator that I know that can do that, but I could be wrong.

    #17052

    stractor
    Participant

    Correction—“All the Yellow and red wires are the leads from the the stator. They are not redundant there are three sets of coils in the stator that output AC that is routed to the regulator and rectified into DC” –should read —-The yellow and red wires are from the stator, they output AC (single phase) that is routed to the regulator and rectified into DC.

    #17055

    vail
    Participant

    Bite the bullet and put a conversion on it. the original system sucks, so don’t put money into something that is prone to failure. I replaced mine 10 years ago and never bad a problem….

    #17056

    apache81821
    Participant

    Thank you very much for the information, I agree the old system is definitely, let’s say challenging…… Im gonna wait the winter at this point and install the conversion kit.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

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